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Yohji Yamamoto is a fashion designer known for his avant-garde and innovative designs. He was born on October 3, 1943, in Tokyo, Japan, and graduated from Keio University with a degree in law before pursuing fashion design. In 1981, he debuted his eponymous fashion label, Yohji Yamamoto, in Paris, and quickly gained international recognition for his unique approach to fashion.

Yamamoto's designs are characterized by deconstruction, asymmetry, and a fusion of Eastern and Western influences. He challenges traditional notions of fashion, pushing boundaries and blurring the lines between fashion, art, and architecture. His work often reflects his personal philosophy, which emphasizes the importance of clothing as a means of expression and individuality, rather than conforming to societal norms.

Yamamoto has received numerous awards for his contributions to the fashion industry, including the Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres in France and the Master of Design Award from Fashion Group International. His designs have been exhibited in museums and galleries around the world, and he continues to be a prominent figure in the fashion industry, renowned for his unique and thought-provoking creations.

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"Notebook on Cities and Clothes" explores the relationship between fashion, architecture, and the urban environment, and how they influence each other. The documentary zooms into Yamamoto's unique perspective on fashion as speculation and critical making, challenging traditional notions of fashion and pushing the boundaries of design. He explores the urban landscape, architecture, and the people who inhabit these spaces, drawing inspiration from their dynamics and complexities. Yamamoto discusses how the city and its architecture influence his designs and how fashion can reflect the social, cultural, and political context of a place.

Overall, the documentary provides a unique perspective on how fashion can transcend mere aesthetics and become a form of artistic expression, social commentary, and a reflection of the world we live in.

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The arrival of Japanese designers in Paris in the early 1980s was a big moment in fashion history. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto's spring-summer collections in 1983 surprised and intrigued the fashion press. Their designs were described as "rags that survived an atomic explosion," with a deliberate "poor look" that challenged traditional haute couture.

Instead of the usual glamorous evening wear, these designs were described as "raw talent" that disconcerted and puzzled, made for unconventional women. They ignored the usual structure of Western clothes like shoulders, seams, waist, and hips, and embraced a new aesthetic that broke the rules. The fashion press called it "fashion from another world," a Japan that turned strict "miserabilism" into a new form of luxury.

The impact of these Japanese designers was huge, as they changed the traditional standards of elegance and redefined fashion. Their designs influenced the global fashion industry, not just in Japan. It was a turning point that pushed fashion to evolve and embrace new aesthetics that continue to inspire and shape the industry today.

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Yamamoto's concept of "critical making" in fashion goes beyond creating garments for the sake of aesthetics or trends. He sees fashion as a means of expressing deeper messages and ideas, using it as a form of critique and social commentary. He challenges societal norms and conventions, using his designs to provoke thought and question the status quo.

Yamamoto's approach to fashion also includes a sense of timelessness. He aims to create garments that are durable and long-lasting, encouraging people to wear them for at least 10 years or more. This approach is a departure from the fast fashion industry, where trends come and go quickly, and garments are often discarded after minimal use. Yamamoto's emphasis on durability and longevity aligns with sustainable fashion practices, promoting a more conscious and responsible approach to consumption.

Yamamoto's view on fashion also reflects his concern for the comfort and protection of the wearer. He wants to protect the clothes themselves from the transient nature of fashion trends, while also protecting the woman's body from external elements such as men's eyes or the cold wind. This reflects his deep understanding of the relationship between fashion, the body, and the environment, and how fashion can be used to address issues related to gender, comfort, and climate.

Overall, Yamamoto's concept of "critical making" in fashion encompasses his desire to create garments that convey meaningful messages, challenge societal norms, promote sustainability, and prioritize the comfort and protection of the wearer. His approach to fashion goes beyond the surface aesthetics, delving into the realm of social, cultural, and political commentary, making his work a powerful tool for expression and change.

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When asked about how he sees fashion and design, he says”When I think about the image of a fashion designer I think about trends. I have to think about what’s new, what’s next, what kind of feeling customers want. It’s too busy for me. So, from the beginning, I wanted to protect the clothes themselves from fashion, and at the same time protect the woman’s body from something – maybe from men’s eyes or a cold wind. I wanted people to keep on wearing my clothes for at least 10 years or more, so I requested the fabric maker to make a very strong, tough finish.”

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In conclusion, Yohji Yamamoto's contributions to the fashion industry go beyond his innovative designs. He has challenged traditional notions of fashion, pushed boundaries, and blurred the lines between fashion, art, and architecture. His unique perspective on fashion as speculation and critical making has paved the way for new aesthetics and ideologies in the industry. Yamamoto's emphasis on sustainability, longevity, and the protection of the wearer reflects his deep understanding of the relationship between fashion, society, and the environment. His work serves as a powerful tool for expression and change, and continues to inspire and shape the fashion industry today. Yamamoto's vision of fashion as a form of artistic expression and social commentary challenges us to think critically about the role of fashion in our lives and the world we live in.